Last fall when the front porch got a new roof, the guys removed the storms for the Pedimented Window. The storms didn't get reinstalled because they needed some work first.
The oldest of the glazing compound was failing and the paint was starting to peel. Over the past couple of weeeks in the down periods waiting for varnish to dry, etc on the the back door, I scraped, sanded, and removed the glass from these storms. Of course, when removing the glazing compound and glass I broke one of the panes (the one I'd replaced last time, I think. Its putty was in good shape but I figured I'd do a full restoration...). Fortunately I had a piece of glass that was big enough. It just needed to be cut down to the correct size.
Over the weekend I started the next part of the process, including final sanding, primer, and re-installing the glass. All the glass is bedded and pointed, but only one of the storms has been completely puttied. The other one will get the exterior putty sometime this week. Then I wait for it to skin over before final coats of paint and re-installation.
I'm using Sarco putty this time. It's way easier to work with. I highly recommend it.
Looking good!
ReplyDeleteDid you have to do any wood restoration (epoxy, etc)? What do you prime with before glazing?
I reglazed our entire last house with ordinary Dap33, but tried Sarco Type M when I did a dew windows for a friend earlier this year. It seemed...alright. Maybe it was all the hype I'd heard, or maybe I just got used to stiff Dap33 after using several gallons of it, but it just wasn't as world-changing as I'd expected. I need to do the 50-some windows in our new place here at some point, but am not certain what to use. I mainly want it to outlast me...
I use XIM Peel Bond as the primer. I didn't realize they gave me a quart that dries clear, so I'd prefer white in the future. It seems OK for now, but time will tell.
ReplyDeleteI used Abatron WoodEpox on some larger voids and cracks and LiquidWood to stabilize some other areas, in particular the vent holes and bottom edges.
It was the gumminess and caulk-like consistency of the DAP 33 that I'd used previously that resulted in the broken pane of glass. And there are some places where previous repairs have been done with it that are already failing. I agree that the Sarco isn't a life-changer necessarily, but I like it better so far. And most of the professional window restorers I talk to recommend it over the DAP.
Thanks for the feedback.
ReplyDeleteI have used RotDoctor CPES consolidant and their Fill-It epoxy putty for all my repairs, which I've been really happy with. The putty is super-sticky (which is encouraging for it's bond), but can be tricky to sculpt. The trick I've learned for more complex shapes is to get about the right amount on with a putty knife, then use some thin plastic film (saran wrap, grocery bag, etc) laid over it to allow hand-forming it to the final shape, which I intentionally leave a little high. Once it's cured, the plastic peels right off and I can do a final sanding, prime, and paint.
The DAP33 jobs I've done seem to be holding up fine. I'm anal about pre-priming the rabbets, and getting good coverage over the putty with paint, especially that 1/16" onto the glass. I think most putties fail pretty fast once water gets behind them.